Where to buy NFC enabled locks?
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Those things would be nice, but easiest would just be NFC and leave an option to connect other things, arduino style controller would make this possible or perhaps use arduino compatible data lines. But the 'KISS' protocol is always the best one to follow in the first instance.
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Me, I'll likely go the DIY route and as you mentioned use an atmega328. Purely because I love using atmegas in things though, the common reaction to me saying 'I will build my own door lock' tends to be first disbelief, then distaste, possibly at all the hassle involved. "But why do that when you can just go down to the hardware store and buy one."
The one I am designing uses electric strikes which are relatively cheap and allow you to keep the original hardware on the door (keys still work). I was planning on integrating with lockitron or something down the road to control the deadbolt. The reason for designing it like this is for something that doesn't require modification to your door or frame and still allows your original keys to work. The electric strikes won't fit in a wood doorframe without modification, but if you have a metal frame like my entryway, it should fit no problem. That is where I will be installing the first prototype.
I will upload a video of my breadboard solution shortly and edit this post./e here it is
[url:1gfh0gu3]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5f9BUaIGPfgd2pOS3ZhNU5NWEU/edit?usp=sharing[/url:1gfh0gu3] -
That's excellent, strike plates are much easier to deal with in places where they require you to retain the fire rating for the door itself.
It's unfortunate that they tend to be so much bulkier than a standard plate, but it's the lesser of evils I reckon. -
The one I am designing uses electric strikes which are relatively cheap and allow you to keep the original hardware on the door (keys still work).[/quote:15chce0r]
Looks good! -
I have a strike lock on one of my inside doors, it performs relatively well but I dunno
a) What the power requirements are like compared to the conventional locks (not sure what they are called)? mortis maybe?
b) What insurance companies think about them.What happens if power is removed from your system? Is the user still able to get out? I assume as there is some manual yale style handle on the inside that can be used?
You could almost fit a nano in the strike system btw, that'd be neat, then it's just an issue of providing power, my thought would be to use a smaller battery but use solar charging to keep it charged, not sure how feasible this is though!
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btw you could reduce the size of your system by using a simple setup like mine..
Arduino Nano
Elechouse PN532
Relay..I should really get pics of one of my units that I'm prototyping, I'm sure from above though anyone could figure out the schematic and how it can be made smaller :)
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Correct, the electric strike goes inside the doorframe itself. nothing about the existing door handle/locking mechanisms changes. When you use the electric strike you simply push the door open without having to turn the door knob/handle. The electric-strike itself is fail-secure meaning if it loses power it is not going to unlock. However, since you still have the original hardware in the door you can still unlock and open from the outside with a key or open the door from the inside with no problem.
I can't really speak for insurance companies.Sticking a nano in there is an interesting idea. For my project, I want it somewhere I can get easy access in case I want to modify code or anything, also I plan on running multiple locks off one unit at some point, so a central location works better.
I had same idea for battery and solar, doubt one small enough to fit in the strike housing would be powerful enough. I still need to do testing. The strikes require 12v. Not sure how much current (is that the right word? I'm a programmer, not an EE) they draw. -
- Nano provides mini USB so it might be ideal
- Yea current is the right word, yea I can imagine it's a fair amount but worth investigating :)
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I used to use Nanos in everything but I've taken a liking to the microduino, the form factor is tiny especially if you sacrifice the usb portion of the thing.
Strike plates shouldn't take too much current, it's just releasing a catch that holds the back of the strike in place, everything else is mechanical movement from when you push the door open.
Pics please John :-) -
@gth
Sorry, didn't see your post earlier. Don't want to quote your entire post, but i think you will follow.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E2D59O/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1Yes, the door to my entryway only has the handle lock, so just the strike for that one. My main door has the lock on the handle and a deadbolt, so would need the lockitron and a strike for it.
So my entryway door has a metal frame. Those frames are set up perfectly for electric strikes. Wood frame doors however would require quite a bit of modification which is the case on my main door. Since I am renting, I will not be modifying that door frame :P
Electric strikes are pretty simple, and I feel like one could be designed to drop into a wooden doorframe without modification, unfortunately such a thing just does not exist.I am somewhat considering designing lockitron type setup for the main door handle, I think the handle I have would be a good candidate for it. But that is wayyyyy down the road, I have too many other projects/hobbies that take precedence.
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Yes, the door to my entryway only has the handle lock, so just the strike for that one. My main door has the lock on the handle and a deadbolt, so would need the lockitron and a strike for it.
Why Lockitron, mate? Are you going to bluetooth activate it from the strikeplate arduino setup? Just, I thought they were bluetooth only, no NFC.
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Keep in mind, this is a rental, so keeping all original hardware with no modification would be best route for me. However, my landlord is in IT and we are on decent enough terms that he probably wouldn't have a problem with me replacing the deadbolt and handle so long as the door itself isn't modified.
I would likely hook the arduino with ncf reader up to my network and have it control the lockitron over it's wifi connection.
If you have other ideas to keep the original hardware on the door, I would be more than open to them.I haven't done much research, any suggestions on solutions that could replace the hardware (pic below). Ideally, it would still be able to use a key for entrance and I would definitely want to replace both the deadbolt and handle.
[url:1wrokkii]https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5f9BUaIGPfgYUdvUEd6ZjZoekE/edit?usp=sharing[/url:1wrokkii] -
Aah, ok, I hadn't realised they use wifi (just checked the Lockitron site again). That's a bit more useful than a bluetooth only connection.
It's a difficult one, I rent too but it's a house so I'm pretty right with simply replacing the deadlatch while I'm living there. -
The Kwikset with this "homeconnect" would probably be a good option. They come with zigbee/zwave, so theoretically I could integrate them and my nfc reader with the almond+ I backed on kickstarter.... if it ever ships :P
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lol. I love KickStarter.
Yeah, that looks pretty cool. I had to look up kwikset, because Australian.
The almond+ looks very colourful and interesting.
Watch how many methods of entry you stack up, haha -
I meant to post a link, forgot.
http://www.kwikset.com/electronics/homeowners/availableproducts.aspxI think the way I would set it up would be to use both the deadbolt and the lever from quickset for my main door. Maybe disable the pin code entry somehow. On the entryway use an electric strike. Two Elechouse NFC modules, one outside the entryway and one outside the main door both hooked up to an arduino inside that has zwave or zigbee. Integrate them with the almond+, and stir in some of my mad programming skills to make them all play nicely.
I suppose while I am at it, I should put my second strike on the back door to the entry way that I use when I go running. No more carrying a set of keys on my run! -
No more keys is what I'm aiming at too.
Oh, you run? We only do that in Australia when something is flooding, on fire or trying to bite us. ;-)
So is one of these a shared door with other tenants or something? If your landlord has multiple tenants then you could team up to promote the idea of keyless entry. -
I have a strike lock on one of my inside doors, it performs relatively well but I dunno [/quote:1m2ywons]
I have an alarm system that is battery-backed; it'd be easy to run a cable from there into the wall cavity near the striker plate (just follow the light switch run, really). I think I'd just steal power from the alarm box though, rather than trying to make the striker behave like some kind of alarm-sensor at this early stage. As much as I'd love to complicate the idea with wifi or PoE I think I'm just going to keep it really simple with just a programming mode up front and then stand-alone mode after that.
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Guys, this just made me think. If you could get a hold of an android phone that was used and had NFC, or a junked phone that could be setup with OTG and a USB NFC reader, it seems you could mount the phone next to the door on the inside, maybe near a light socket, then the reader could be opened to extend it's antenna. If you ad a doorbell,you could easily modify the top plate that came with the reader to fit behind your doorbell plate and wired through it's hole. If you do have a light switch even the res of the reader could be mounted behind the wall and could provide both with power. The cool thing is that with something like tasker and the phone, when you tapped your ring the app would send the command through your home network. to unlock the door, or lock if it's not already so. the phone itself could act as a screen at the door. Home page could have a time/temp widget and the tasker buttons to unlock/lock the door. A swipe one way could reveal a running grocery list, another swipe for to-do list. just got me thinking.
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Personally I see that as just about the most difficult way to do things, mostly because mobile phones don't enjoy being modified like that. I mean, it's doable, but your milage really is going to vary based on so many different things including how skilled you are with an iron and exactly how heavily you modify the phone.
By the time you're done it would perhaps have been easier to use one of the elechouse PN532 units with an arduino instead.
