A-Z of car ignition systems
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@Lokki lucky you....
Is the some way to turn on a insert photo feature? I see it used to be done or is it restricted to certain users? -
There is, the same way you were doing links earlier just with an exclamation mark leading. I think it's down to the google drive link being unfriendly - I use imgur instead.
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Board design to make everything fit..
not having bought parts yet im unsure as to how big this puppy is
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from www.digikey.com.au
2 X 497-2595-5-ND TRANS NPN 30V 800MA TO-39 AU$3.94
2 x P10316-ND CAP ALUM 10UF 50V 20% RADIAL AU$0.78
1 x Z2775-ND RELAY GEN PURPOSE SPST 5A 12V AU$1.50
1 x 255-1066-ND RELAY GENERAL PURPOSE DPDT 2A 5V AU$7.57
2 x PPC47.5KYCT-ND RES 47.5K OHM 0.4W 1% AXIAL AU$0.62
2 x PPC82.5KYCT-ND RES 82.5K OHM 0.4W 1% AXIAL AU$0.62From elechouse.com
1 x PN532 NFC RFID module V3 kit Approx au$30.00from core.electronics.com.au
Nano 3.0 Atmel Atmega328P Mini-USB Board w/ USB Cable for Arduino AU $8.99anyone able to throw in opinions or perhaps ways to drop the price down a bit? i notice the main price is simply from the arduino, and not knowing anything about them am unsure if this is normal pricing or a rip
yes i am aware im mostly using australian sites, but i have tried to include manfacturers codes to make it easier for international search -
@lokki you are correct i do have an OBD port just didnt realize it was there untill now
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Personally I'd grab a clone nano off ebay or dx.com or similar. Don't get a clone of the reader though.
Something like this perhaps.
I've edited one of your posts to show the picture, you can have a look in edit yourself to see how to embed images. I used a different link address from imgur that's specifically for that purpose. -
@lokki good call, ive altered my shopping list appropriatly....at the cost a genuine it just didnt seems like it would be a viable option if i need a genuine for every product.....
ok so if all parts look good ill be ordering tonight....
after much debate im going to give a standard ring a go and see what happens@lokki your a treasure chest of wisdom in here. would have already given up on understanding otherwise...
Keep up the great work -
Genuine is nice if you can afford it, but clones are excusable as long as they're not using the arduino name to promote themselves. Arduino is open source but the name is a different thing.
You're doing well here, it's good. -
would be nice if a single site sold everything
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That link isn't showing up for me, are you able to give me a part number?
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@lokki 255-1066-ND on digikey.com.au
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@MarkGabb said:
255-1066-ND
ok, my bad. The diagram I knocked together for you was related to a motorbike project I was asked about... so while it's relevant it's not as relevant as it could have been in a better world.
The Panasonic relay is a latching type, what it does differently is that when you trigger one side of the relay coil it locks in position one way, then you trigger the other side of the coil and it releases. This is what you'll use to set the car OFF or ON. We use this one so that if power is lost to the arduino for whatever reason then we don't suddenly lose power to the car while driving.Again, my fault entirely. This makes the following change - you have three outputs from the arduino instead of only two. All three are basically the same, transistor/resistor/diode, and two of them go to the same relay.
I haven't got a picture of the latching relay for a fritzing diagram unfortunately. -
@lokki all cool good sir. So if I just add another transistor and resistor with a diode in between. But put it to the second part of the relay? So does that mean I did select the correct part?
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Yeah that's the right part, I guess you got it from my rough BOM on my car starter thread.
It's basically the same kind of relay only it has two states and both are persistent.
so instead of two contacts for the coil there are four, two go one way and two go the other basically just reversing the polarity of the magnet in the thing according to which one is triggered.I'm really kicking myself over that though, I had both projects in my head and the newest/latest one came out on top.
- I think the moral of the story here is to listen to the spirit of what I say and ignore the specifics. Sometimes. ;-)
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got it!@lokki so do i win for tonight? or did i just blow my circuit up....
in deference to you i have done it in schem mode hope i did it right
sorry reverse the tags on the on and ignition tabs
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Ok, we're nearly there - I just noticed that the flyback diodes need to be flipped so they're pointing towards positive, not negative (I think I did that to you as well!) but apart from that we're golden.
That's your basic start circuit I reckon. Next you can customise and add in whatever else you need.
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i think that will do untill ive got that installed and working.....
i guess the code is another story all together?
ill have to work on that at a later date.....later on i would like to add the door locks in, and maybe a door popper....
that would be it for my caryou mentioned earlier the the chip can reset it self....does that mean you would have to double tap the NFC sensor then to turn the car off...?
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You could quite happily use the latest code from my thread, this hardware is basically the same as what I have at the moment though I'm experimenting with a safety cutout for the reader hooked through the handbrake switch - so the reader will only work while the handbrake is on.
What I have noticed occasionaly is that for whatever reason my unit resets itself occasionally. The latching relay doesn't allow the car to cut out at this point which is good... but we were resetting to the point where the arduino thought the car was off and would engage the starter motor again briefly.
To combat this I'm going to use one of the inputs on the unit to let the arduino know if the engine is already running and allow the next ring read to shut off the car power instead of grinding the starter.
I'll add this to the code as part of an IF AND statement. -
awesome ill look at the code over the next day o0r so and see if i can work it out
