so bought most of my components today and started work on the prototype board
looks horrible i know but its a start.
gotta wait for my reader and arduino to arrive before i can put it into full gear....
i will post the breadboard representation of the work im doing as well so that people can see what actually to put where instead of my mess of components and wires
awesome...one on order now, will check it out and play next week....see how it goes with domain setups
Loki. I'm a gippslander down in victoria
Well I guess you could put it this way. I did electronics in school so I know the basics of soldering and electronics and can work from a diagram.
I'm a IT admin so I should be able to work with anything that has a USB port
It will just be connecting the dots that will involve the effort
If anyone is able to point me to the spec diagrams that would be great, I can check them out and see how I go....
I guess I just ned to make sure that for future use, it's also capable of handling a second io to run the doors, as it seems to make sense to me to have it run al off one controller
ok so work in process ......
currently working off @lokki design he gave me at the following link here!
following is the shopping list so far
Shopping:
breadboard type stuff to put board on
1 x arduino Nano
1 x elechouse PN532 v3 Reader (cant substitute from all ive read...not worth the trouble)
2 x 1N4001 diodes
2 x resistor (50k)
2 x resistor (100k)
2 x NPN transistors (size doesn't matter?)
2 x 10 uF Electrolytic capacitors
2 x relays
◦Panasonic DS2E-SL2-DC5V latching relay
◦LZ-12H-K momentary relay
computer IDE power leads will be sufficient for connecting external devices such as cabled to colum and cables to reader. probably main power in as well...clean and secure connection
so thanks to the listed page
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/23645/how-do-i-calculate-the-required-value-for-a-pull-up-resistor
I found the following information
Here are some rules of thumb when guessing at a good pullup/down resistor value:
•For most things, 3.3k to 10k ohms works just fine.
•For power sensitive circuits, use a higher value. 50k or even 100k ohms can work for many applications (but not all).
•For speed sensitive circuits, use a lower value. 1k ohms is quite common, while values as low as 200 ohms are not unheard of.
•Sometimes, like with I2C, the "standard" specifies a specific value to use. Other times the chips application notes might recommend a value.
@lokki you are correct i do have an OBD port just didnt realize it was there untill now
@lokki good call, ive altered my shopping list appropriatly....at the cost a genuine it just didnt seems like it would be a viable option if i need a genuine for every product.....
ok so if all parts look good ill be ordering tonight....
after much debate im going to give a standard ring a go and see what happens
@lokki your a treasure chest of wisdom in here. would have already given up on understanding otherwise...
Keep up the great work
Yes yes. I see what you mean. Doesn' look classy if it resets while driving and you have to grind the starter to turn it off
What were you thinking for the sensor? Voltage test? So it picks up the alternator output?
I'm looking up toner transfer now
But that means I have to get a pcb design right first
im not an expert on bioimpedance in any way shape or form, but if this technology was up and running why arent we using it for diabetic pumps and such?
much better than under the skin stuff that has only just been released.....
@Lokki you seems to know a little about alot
@Lokki think this is worth it for us??? maybe a bit of aussie mastercard support??
bumping an old topic but worth it
i agree with @Lokki older comments.
i myself have never actually seen a confirmed case of rfid skimmed data being used to preform a transaction
not personaly...
every single story i hear is prefaced with
"i know someone who"
comepletely understand......what sort of pricing is available on the comercial version? we are about to start alot with NFC...and this seems like a likely scenario...there are a few people with rings, would be awesome if long term we could organise something with mclear for the hospital
basicly the most icdo know is that it did work, then suddenly which trying to start it now cranks over but wont latch on....
well im not sure.......but i have a theory.... there is an Nti jumpstart plug on my cylinder, cant start car unless keys are in ignition.... so i bridged the wires.....
have a feeling it may have a resistive circuit instead of a strait switch...
so both good news and bad....got the device in and mounted....
but burnt out my imoboliser....didnt even know i had one.....so trip to the auto elec's tomorrow
from my copious googleing it looks like its just a spring i need to remove...which shouldnt be hard....
want to leave the key in the car for a month or so.......JUSTIN CASE
1996 mitsubishi mirage....pretty tame car, but i figure the wiring will be much easier that way.....
still gotta workout how to diable the colum lock
ive recently gotten quite interested in the mysensors opensource automation gear at the moment...
am thinking about intergrating some of their work into this as well....
basicly rfm 838 mhz radio transfer tech....add in a remote starter type thing....