so bought most of my components today and started work on the prototype board
looks horrible i know but its a start.
gotta wait for my reader and arduino to arrive before i can put it into full gear....
i will post the breadboard representation of the work im doing as well so that people can see what actually to put where instead of my mess of components and wires
Loki. I'm a gippslander down in victoria
Well I guess you could put it this way. I did electronics in school so I know the basics of soldering and electronics and can work from a diagram.
I'm a IT admin so I should be able to work with anything that has a USB port
It will just be connecting the dots that will involve the effort
If anyone is able to point me to the spec diagrams that would be great, I can check them out and see how I go....
I guess I just ned to make sure that for future use, it's also capable of handling a second io to run the doors, as it seems to make sense to me to have it run al off one controller
ok so work in process ......
currently working off @lokki design he gave me at the following link here!
following is the shopping list so far
Shopping:
breadboard type stuff to put board on
1 x arduino Nano
1 x elechouse PN532 v3 Reader (cant substitute from all ive read...not worth the trouble)
2 x 1N4001 diodes
2 x resistor (50k)
2 x resistor (100k)
2 x NPN transistors (size doesn't matter?)
2 x 10 uF Electrolytic capacitors
2 x relays
◦Panasonic DS2E-SL2-DC5V latching relay
◦LZ-12H-K momentary relay
computer IDE power leads will be sufficient for connecting external devices such as cabled to colum and cables to reader. probably main power in as well...clean and secure connection
so thanks to the listed page
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/23645/how-do-i-calculate-the-required-value-for-a-pull-up-resistor
I found the following information
Here are some rules of thumb when guessing at a good pullup/down resistor value:
•For most things, 3.3k to 10k ohms works just fine.
•For power sensitive circuits, use a higher value. 50k or even 100k ohms can work for many applications (but not all).
•For speed sensitive circuits, use a lower value. 1k ohms is quite common, while values as low as 200 ohms are not unheard of.
•Sometimes, like with I2C, the "standard" specifies a specific value to use. Other times the chips application notes might recommend a value.
@lokki you are correct i do have an OBD port just didnt realize it was there untill now
@lokki good call, ive altered my shopping list appropriatly....at the cost a genuine it just didnt seems like it would be a viable option if i need a genuine for every product.....
ok so if all parts look good ill be ordering tonight....
after much debate im going to give a standard ring a go and see what happens
@lokki your a treasure chest of wisdom in here. would have already given up on understanding otherwise...
Keep up the great work
Yes yes. I see what you mean. Doesn' look classy if it resets while driving and you have to grind the starter to turn it off
What were you thinking for the sensor? Voltage test? So it picks up the alternator output?
I'm looking up toner transfer now
But that means I have to get a pcb design right first
Cheers. I though somehow that when I swapped the orientation of the diodes I might have stuffed up the work you started. If the scheme is correct I'll work on building a board
so the arduino arrived today..pretty flashy looking....still got to finish my PCB design....having issues as i dont have the final relay yet to make sure my measurments match
@Lokki awesome...within about a week i should have mine up and running
yeah im looking into the raspberry pi openelec rout for mine
awesome...one on order now, will check it out and play next week....see how it goes with domain setups
here is my pre install test